The threaded posts are NOT inserted correctly into the base so the saddle can't rest flat on the bridge base and saddle is at a weird angle.This is a great idea in that using small sections of fret wire than can be positioned in the slots cut into the wood saddle to set the intonation a more accurately. Unfortunately the craftsmanship is so bad that the end result is unusable..I am sure that I can now use the design to easily make my own (temporary) saddle and cut slots for the fret sections where i want them. My (or any player's) ultimate goal is to achieve the most accurate intonation with the lowest possible action with my preferred gauge of strings.I only want to use this as a temporary saddle (or jig) to figure out where I need to file and shape the contact points to make a custom more eye appealing and quality saddle with the best intonation I can get for each gauge of string I use. When making a saddle if you shape any one of the six points in the wrong place you have to start making a new saddle from scratch.I use custom set of string gauges so the width of a standard cut (wood, bone, etc.) saddle does not have enough width to set in the saddle point for some of the strings that I need (usually the G string). So I do need a saddle that is a bit thicker than what you normally get. I would rather not use the Gibson style adjustable saddle/bridge assembly (even as a temporary jig) if I can avoid it mainly because finding one with the correct radius is difficult. so this more natural type is preferable at least to figure out where to set the saddle points for each string.